30 August 2017

Just had time for a brief morning swim. Not quite so many jellyfish this time The beach is alongside our side of the harbour and so it's only a few yards to walk. Then the weather forecast came true and most of the day was heavily overcast with long periods of rain. Decided to stay and then explore when the weather cleared. Eventually we went out for a run across the island to the N end.
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2 notable things: There are a number of substantial old farmsteads similar to those seen elsewhere. This suggests that agriculture has long been prosperous.
The other was a little Russian Orthodox church complete with onion - shaped spire on the top. Alongside was a building with doors labelled 1 to 4. Maybe rooms for visitors? Also a set of bells on a small frame on the ground. Sorry no pics - not a good time to carry the phone.
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Warming supper of beef and veg.

Tracks

The GPS chartplotter records a track of our progress each day. However getting the tracks onto the blog is a bit labour intensive, so it will have to wait until we get home or get kept in port by foul weather.

29 August 2017 - Middelfart to Bågø

Swim from the beach by the marina. Then made a leisurely start. A beat all the way so progress was a little slow and we didn't reach our planned lunch stop until 2:30. This was at the N end of Bågø and was not very sheltered. After lunch and consulting the weather forecast again we sailed round to the harbour at the S end of the island as the wind is forecast to change to inconvenient directions overnight. Swim found the water warmer than usual but rather jellyfish - ridden. Ouch.
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Don't seem to have taken any pics...

28 August 2017 - Gamborg Fjord to Middelfart

With a forecast of sun and light wind this was planned as a lazy day with a slow sail up the fjord. The wind was better and cooler than expected. After a swim and lunch stop we went into the big marina at Middelfart and did some much needed shopping.
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Early morning light in Gamborg Fjord

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Sunset at Middelfart

27 August 2017 - Aebelø to Gamborg Fjord

Woke to find the day cool and grey with the anchorage less sheltered than before with wind from the NW. Omitted the morning swim as conditions were not good for avoiding jellyfish.
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Decided not to land on the island, but had a good sail W to the relatively narrow channel which separates Fyn from Jutland. This is very wiggly, has 2 high bridges over it and about 2 knots of current against us. Surprisingly we managed to sail all the way through, but tacking through the combined road/rail bridge was a bit of a challenge. We were accompanied at this point by a German boat just a little larger than us. We pretty much kept up and kept each other company. Nearly all the other boats motored through. After a brief tea stop on a buoy opposite Middelfart we went a short way further and anchored in Gamborg Fjord.
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Sailing through bridges is a bit stressful

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Pics of the second bridge were only taken after passing through. Too busy on the approach

26 August 2017 - Endelave to Aebelø

Morning swim cool but less so than yesterday. Eventually left and sailed slowly to the island of Aebelø, which is quite small and connected to the main island of Fyn such that it's possible to wade across when the water is low enough (there is some tide here).
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We had an unrelaxed swim dodging small red jellyfish. Did not want to get stung on any sensitive part exposed by Scandinavian style swimming from the boat.
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After lunch the wind turned onshore, so we chilled out on the boat for a bit to decide if it was worth going round to the other side of the island. Eventually the wind went back to the proper direction but it was to late to go ashore. Supper majored on mushrooms again - just 2 of them. Guess what's for supper tomorrow.
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Sorry no pics. Will take some tomorrow. Later: view the island the next day

25 August 2017 - Endelave

After a tiring day yesterday which left no time for visiting the island, we stayed all day today and explored by bike.
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Cool brief morning swim from the bathing place of the outside of the harbour, just a few steps from the boat. It appears swimming costumes are not required, so we can keep them dry tomorrow.
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Biked to the N tip of the island, which is a growing shingle spit. Visited the Viking age stone ship setting, which must have been discovered by a very imaginative archaeologist. Looks like a jumble of stones.
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Stopped on the surprisingly sheltered E side of the island for more swimming and lunch. Felt we had done enough swimming to qualify for coffee and cake.
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The end of the island

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Coffee and cake again

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Mushrooms for supper

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Old farmhouse. They are built as a square of buildings with a yard in the centre. Hard to photograph.

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Mushroom supper

24 August 2017 - Samsø to Endelave

Overnight the wind went round to SE, so the anchorage was less sheltered, but not uncomfortable. Should have deflated the dinghy and put it away last night. After brief swim and breakfast we set off and motored carefully past the shallow channels to get clear of the East side of the island. Then the plan was simple: down the East side pretty much into wind, turn the corner and have a fast reach across to Endelave. Going down the E side worked ok. However when we turned the corner the wind came round with us, so the whole day was to windward, mostly with 1 reef in. Followed the scanty marks across very shallow water to the harbour, which seems to be very well equipped.
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No photos. On such a grey and damp day we weren't in the mood. Later,on leaving, I have added a photo of the harbour entrance

23 August 2017 - Samsø

Took the bikes ashore and cycled round the northern part of the island. We visited the harbour at Mårup and then went on to the northern tip of the island where the scenery is rolling grassland like the downs. I think it it's chalk based.
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There are more roadside self service stalls per kilometre than I have seen anywhere else. Although we have seen plenty of beehives none of the stalls sold honey.
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Civilised coffee and cake

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Nordby is to twee for words


And it has a bell tower

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The northern hills

22 August 2017 - Tuno to Samso (Langor)

Rather cool morning swim. Decided not to go ashore again as it would take all day to go much further than yesterday's trip.
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Enjoyed a gentle sail round the N end of Samso and anchored in the bay outside the harbour at Langor. For a change this trip involved no gusty wind or tricky poilotage. Anchoring seems to be a popular option here - there are currently 14 of us.  However it seems as if some boats have come here to practise anchoring - there are several anchor balls (seldom seen elsewhere) and some anchor buoys, which seem quite unnecessary as you can look down through the clear water and see exactly where you are dropping the anchor. Also a good deal of fussing about before dropping the anchor.
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Anchored in the bay - we are the boat on the left:

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Light weather sailing:

21 August 2017 - Århus to Tunø

Cool but sunny. The forecast said that the wind would lessen during the day, so we set off after coffee time. No morning swim as it was cool and breezy and the good swimming place was to far away anyway. Started with single - reefed mainsail and did not bother with the Genoa as we were sailing too downwind. Later put in the second reef and kept going quickly with the wind NW5/6. Arriving at Tunø we anchored outside the harbour in a sheltered spot.
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Harbour sheltered and with more room than expected.
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Bought veg at roadside self service stalls.
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Visited the church which is unique in Denmark in serving also as a lighthouse.
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Anchored outside - we are the boat on the left.

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Inside the church
 
Church / lighthouse:

 

20 August 2017 Århus

This is Denmark's second city, so we really ought to look at it and not just move on. We were also tired after a long day getting here.
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We visited "Den Gamle By", which is a big collection of old buildings from as over Denmark. It was started in about 1914 and I think contains buildings which might otherwise have been demolished.
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19 August 2017 - Grenå to Århus

After the first 3 miles this trip turned into a biased beat for the rest of the way. We had already visited Ebeltoft and wanted to avoid repeating the long detour into its bay, so we carried on to Århus. On the way we gradually put in all 3 reefs. Sea conditions were ok but some big threatening clouds appeared. We only seemed to get a little rain from them. Tired after the first long windy sail of the cruise.
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Watch out - nasty clouds behind

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Sailing in wind and rain

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There was a good rainbow when I went to fetch the camera.

18 August 2017 - Grenå

We visited the Kattegat Centre, which is a big aquarium, and is just beside the harbour. The area of sea between Sweden and Denmark is called the Kattegat, apparently because it it's so narrowed by islands and shoals that only a cat could get along it.
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17 August 2017 - Bønnerup to Grenå

One advantage of anchoring outside the harbour is that you can make an early start. That didn't happen today. We left at about 10, after waiting for the day to warm up a bit and then having a rather cool swim. A slightly slow beat as we appeared to be against current. Approaching Grenå we thought of continuing to Ebeltoft. After checking the weather forecast we went in to Grenå where we found a new way of messing up the approach to a box mooring. Going directly into stronger wind than usual, we got ropes on both posts but did not quite reach the pontoon. There were several empty boxes on each side, so we ended up lying across the inside of the posts. No damage done.
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Cycled into town and returned just before the strong wind and rain.
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Grenå town centre:

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Sheltering from rain in the harbour:

16 August 2017 - Mariager Fjord to Bønnerup (outside)

Cool but sunny morning. Through 10am bridge with 4 other boats - no we are not doing early starts just now. The other boats provided a useful guide to the turns in the channel. It's a tiresome 11 miles and many buoys to where it's deep enough to leave the seaward part of the buoyed channel. With following wind and current this only took 2 hours. Later the wind became light and so we decided to go to Bønnerup as it is closer than Grenå. With offshore wind forecast we anchored off the beach to the W of the harbour. Warm sunshine all day, to our surprise.
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Sailing in the sun

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Lots of water but much is just up to the birds'  knees

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Sunset from Bønnerup

15 August 2017 - Mariager to Mariager Fjord

Visited the salt centre in Mariager. I was wrong yesterday - salt was only found in the area in the 20th century, whilst looking for oil. So the past prosperity of Mariager must have been built on something else. Meanwhile the people of the area and the whole of Denmark had been buying expensive salt from other places for hundreds of years when it was under their feet all the time. The highlight of the salt centre was to lie in the salt pool which is 30% salt and warmed to 40°. Even I can float in those conditions. The warm down room seemed just as hot, so after changing I sweated my way round the shop, eventually feeling much cleansed.
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It's a long way to the sea from here, as mentioned earlier, so we sailed down to the fjord to a buoy very near our previous stopping place. Much calmer conditions this time with offshore wind.
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Hopefully tomorrow we can leave the fjord and head south.
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Is it worth the bother of getting into the fjord? Marginal if you just want to visit Mariager even though it's a really nice place with excellent facilities. Better to spend a week and to also visit the big Viking place near Hobro at the head of the fjord.
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Rather fake salt mine. The rest of the exhibition was better. Nowadays the salt is just pumped up by injecting clean water which dissolves it. No digging needed.
The evening swim under grey skies and in 17 degree water was a contrast to our lunch time float in 40 degrees! It was however well timed between a strenuous rowing workout nearby and a light hearted practice race between a German J70 and a Danish J70 for which we served as the windward mark.

14 August 2017 - Mariager Fjord to Mariager

Light wind and bright sunshine were very welcome after yesterday's strong wind. Swam from the boat then sailed slowly to Mariager (after a slight delay lifting the anchor which was well stuck. Had intended to sail off the anchor but had to use the engine to shift it). Mariager is a pretty old village with lots of old timber framed houses. Many of them are high quality buildings, presumably built with the proceeds of the salt industry which has been here for centuries.
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We hope to visit the salt place tomorrow.
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This harbour even has a duck house. Spot our boat above the duck house and a bit to the R:

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13 August 2017 - Mariager fjord

Sunny and windy cold sector weather today. Too windy for a swim and when breakfast was eventually finished the wind was F6 or 7. So we stayed put and swung around a lot.
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The new solar panels did a great job. They topped up the 14Ah used overnight, mostly by the fridge, and also recharged phones, camera and tablet.
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I have included a photo for decoration. It wasn't taken at the windiest moment and I expect you would say anyone would sail a dinghy or anything else in such fine conditions.
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We still have not decided of the fjord is good enough to justify the trouble of getting in. Tomorrow we hope to visit Mariager - maybe that will help us decide.
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12 August 2017 - Bønnerup to Mariager Fjord

Slow sail across the bay to the entrance to the fjord. About 15 miles without getting deeper than 9m. When I say fjord don't think Norwegian tourist brochures - this is a wide, shallow estuary with a narrow channel carefully buoyed and winding about. They say the fjord is very pretty, but is it worth the hassle of motoring up the endless channel with many of the buoys obscured by rain? After a short wait at anchor we passed through Hadsund bridge and eventually anchored during another rain shower.
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Tomorrow we will go a bit further and see if it is pretty and worth the trip.
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No pics, sorry. Not that sort of day.

11 August 2017 - Grenå to Bønnerup

Forecast was for very light wind so it did not seem a good idea to go all the way to Anholt. Went to the nearest place, just N and round a corner.
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Sailed a little, tried some fishing - no luck, saw 2 porpoises
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Entering Bønnerup..


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Some of my photos contain lat and long from the camera's GPS. Unfortunately the blog app, Bloggeroid, mangles this data so if you click on it you go to the middle of the N Sea. I'm using Bloggeroid because the Blogger app won't let me add pics from the phone at all, strangely.

10 August 2017 - Ebeltoft to Grenaa

Good sail. A bit windy at first so we started with a reef. Then the day warmed up.

At Grenaa (it's really an "a" with a circle on the top but I cannot remember how to do it with a proper keyboard although it's easy on the phone) it was very warm, so we swam from the beach near the harbour - rather cold. With each swim it is becoming noticebly saltier as we head slowly from the enclosed Baltic water to towards the North Sea.

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9 August 2017 Ebeltoft

Just as well we planned to spend today looking at the historic ship, the Jylland, as it has been a good force five for most of the day. The Jylland was a timber square rigged ship built in 1862 with the novel feature of a steam engine in addition to her sails. The engine gave her more speed and manoeuvrability in battle. Sadly it wasn't present but it was a good visit despite this. Ebeltoft is a very pretty small town of timbered houses and cobbled streets which is now full of expensive boutiques, restaurants and holiday makers.



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Ebeltoft old town..

8 August 2017 - Odden to Ebeltoft

After a stress free and initially very hot run westwards across the Kattegat, we entered this marina motoring into a strong force five. Not the easiest of conditions in which to hunt for green marked boxes or in which to enter one.  I want to revisit Ebeltoft as I spent a very happy well here at a summer school when I was 22.
The museum of the brief tuna fishing era:

7 August 2017 - Frederikssund to Odden

Sun and SW wind made for a good passage with 1 reef in. A bit tricky in Roskilde Fjord which contains an enormous amount of shallow water. There is a little bit we could sail in, marked by the usual barely visible spar buoys. N coast of Sjealand is a bit more straightforward. Several boxes in Odden harbour were empty as they have a build up of sand caused by the commercial traffic. No problem - just lifted the keel.

1 to 6 August 2017 - Skansen

A relaxing few days of lots of good food and company ended with the first family party in this new home. We were invited to stay for it as the wet and windy weather made sailing unattractive. We gladly accepted and are now recovering after a big meal, akvavit and beer and a very happy gathering. Hopefully we'll be able to continue tomorrow.
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All ready for the family party

2 August 2017 - Roskilde Fjord to Frederikssund

After another warm swim we sailed slowly up to the lifting bridge before Fredericksund and anchor for a swim and lunch before taking the bridge, berthing in Fredericksund and meeting Gürli to spend a couple of days with her in Skansen, their beautiful rebuilt house.

1 August 2017 - Gilleleje to Roskilde Fjord

After a pleasant swim and a wait for the wind we carried on to Roskilde Fjord.  Passing the two marinas in the entrance which seemed crowded from a distance we carried on through the first narrow channel and left the second narrow channel to anchor shortly before reaching Fredericksund. We enjoyed a second comfortable night at anchor, though the anchorages round here seem to be in open sea, so shallow is the water.